One of Chicago's 'top' restaurants, Alinea, has been named as the top American restaurant by the top 50 restaurants in the world. NOMA, from Copenhagen, was first. The reason I'm telling you this is so that you will know and you will know not to go there. I've never been, nor will I go. Alinea is known for its "Molecular Gastronomy". Makes you want to go just for that! Molecular Gastronomy based on rethinking the science of cooking and reviewing all the myths etc about cooking and food. This part I like. The part that Alinea is involved with is the reinvention of food. I like food. Real food. I do not want to go to have a "PB&J" which is a peeled grape (with stem) covered in peanut butter and then wrapped in a thin brioche. Maybe 10 of these, but at Alinea there is one perfect on a plate. Grant Achatz, who is the chef, worked under our own Charlie Trotter and taken the food to a new plane of existance. At one point, he took a hot dog and pulverized it and captured the vapor. You squirt the vapor into your mouth with a bite of brioche and probably some foam of condiments and you have a Chicago hot dog.
Lots of foams and freezing of stuff you might not think about freezing. One article said he and his wife went and spent $750. His wife can't remember ever chewing. After then left, they went to a hot dog stand.
If you have too much money and are willing to eat foams, a lot of suspended spoons over a broth, frozen items that probably aren't meant to be eaten frozen, items on antennas etc etc.
In respect, I understand what Achatz is doing. He is asking people to reconsider the food they eat by altering what you see and how you taste it. I am impressed with his and his staff's ability. I don't necessarily have to have a plate of food with protein, veg, starch. I happen to like tastings, but I do believe that food should be eaten and if I eat at a restaurant (and spend a few hundred), I would be relatively full.
I am probably a heathen and an outcast for those thoughts. But I hope this trend towards tastings and molecular gastronomy will fade and chefs can get back to making real food again.
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Garth,
ReplyDeleteThe PB&J has not been served at Alinea in 5 years. It was a single bite, but many plates are a more ordinary size. Overall, you will get 20+ courses at Alinea. Anyone who says they left hungry probably didn't eat there.
No hot dog was ever pulverized and turned into a vapor. Never happened at Alinea, ever.
Chef Achatz worked for Charlie Trotter for a few weeks before quitting because he didn't like the environment there. He worked at the French Laundry in Napa Valley under Thomas Keller for years.
At least take the time to read their website before making such comments.
Mmmm,makes me want to find a Portillo's.
ReplyDeleteTo anonymous. I read it and you seem to be an expert, but without any backing. I don't like the concept of Molecular Gastronomy. It isn't food or cooking in my mind. The place might be great, but I don't believe that this is where cooking should go. Soon, he will capsulize a dinner and present it to the diners and they will rave about it, Willy Wonka style. That isn't cooking to me. You are entitled to your opinions, but I believe it was in Chicago Magazine. I think he did it for someone as a dare. But he did it. Unless you are Grant Achatz. I know enough about him to know what I don't like. Just because he worked for Keller and Trotter doesn't make him a genius.
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